Craft
Six stages, from pattern to final inspection. Each pair is shaped through a deliberate sequence of material selection, finishing, and handwork.
Pattern
Each shoe starts as flat paper.
The pattern is cut in as few pieces as possible. Fewer seams mean a cleaner line and fewer places for a shoe to fail.
Selection
Hides are chosen by hand.
In the KOVÉN world, each hide is inspected for grain and flaws before cutting, and the best areas are reserved for the vamp.
Stitching
The apron is closed by hand.
Closing the vamp is the slowest single operation on the loafer, and the one that shows most if it is rushed.
Lasting
The upper is pulled over the last.
The leather is stretched and set over the wooden last and left to rest so it keeps its shape.
Soling
The sole is attached and finished.
Depending on the model, the sole is stitched or welted on, then trimmed and burnished edge by edge.
Inspection
Every pair is checked before it leaves.
A final inspection covers symmetry, edge finish, stitching count and fit of the lining against the last.
